THE
CAMERA
(what does what and why)
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SLR
(Single Lens Reflex) cameras come in all shapes and sizes and
can be manual or automatic or even a combination of both.
The
standard SLR (which I shall be using as a blueprint in the following)
is a 35mm format system. Medium format cameras have a larger
film size e.g.: 6x4.5, 6x6 and 6x7 and are used primarily for
landscapes, portraiture, still life and studio work. Although
less flexible than the standard 35mm, the larger negative size
allows greater enlargements with little loss of quality. Lastly,
there are the specialist SLR’s - for use underwater or
capturing spectacular panoramic views.
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The important thing to remember is that all SLR camera systems have
similar
functions.
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LCD
Panel
This
is where all the relevant information is displayed.
Refer to your camera manual for details
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The
following modes are an ideal starting point for the beginner:-
| FULL
AUTO |
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Aim
focusing point at subject
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Press
Shutterbutton halfway to focus
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Take
picture!
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PROGRAMMED
IMAGE CONTROL MODES
| In
the following PIC (or Image) modes the camera will
still do all the technical stuff but using them will give you
an understanding of your camera and it’s functions and may
prove sufficient for your picture taking needs. |
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PORTRAIT
This
mode will blur the background to make the subject stand out. The
camera’s built-in flash will automatically ‘pop-up’
and fire if required.
LANDSCAPE
Will
give front to back sharpness by maximising Depth of Field. Mounting
the camera on a tripod will give the best results.
CLOSE
UP 
This
will allow a close focusing distance for subjects such as insects,
flowers, etc. As with Portrait, the flash will fire automatically
if needed.
SPORTS
Use
this mode to freeze the movement of fast moving sport and action subjects.
Now,
if you’re tired of the camera making all the decisions and want
to take a walk on the wild side, the Creative Zone is for you - but
before you venture down the road to creativity you will have to confront
the dreaded ‘F’ Stops and understand just how light affects
your photographs..........................Aperture & shutter
Speeds.
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This
controls the amount of light that reaches the film. It does
this by a series of numbers
called ‘F’ Stops or ‘F’ Numbers. The usual setting
are:
Some
lenses may start with a 'wider' setting of F1.
Each
Aperture setting is half the size of the preceding ‘F’
number (i.e.:F4 lets in half the
amount of light of F2.8) and is twice the size of the following
‘F’ number (i.e.:F4 lets
in twice the amount of light of F5.6). The smaller the ‘F’
number the wider the Aperture
and the larger the ‘F’ number the smaller the
Aperture - in a nutshell small
means big and big means small!
In
addition to controlling light, the Aperture also helps control Depth
of Field (D.O.F) which
is the area of sharpness extending in front and behind the point of
focus.
Altering
the Aperture setting will directly alter the Shutter Speed.
SHUTTER
SPEEDS
These
control the amount of time it takes for the light to reach
your film. Typical Shutter Speeds are displayed in seconds (from 30
to 1) and fractions of a second (1/4,
1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/90, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/750, 1/1000 and
1/2000). Some
cameras are capable of much faster Shutter Speeds.
Altering
the Shutter Speed will directly alter the Aperture setting.
Baffled
yet? Now for that walk on the wild side………………………The
Creative Modes.
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CREATIVE
MODES
PROGRAM
AE (P)
Like the Full Auto mode, this is for general purpose photography but
it allows you to choose the Shutter Speed and Aperture whilst the
exposure remains the same.
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SHUTTER
SPEED PRIORITY AE (or Time
Value)
This
allows you to set fast or slow Shutter Speeds to freeze or blur
movement. Perfect for sport and action photography.
APERTURE
PRIORITY AE (or Aperture
Value)
Allows
you to set a larger or smaller Aperture to blur the background
or increase Depth of Field . Ideal for portraits and landscapes.
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MANUAL
EXPOSURE (M)
In
this mode you can set both the Shutter Speed and the Aperture
for total control although the camera will warn you if the Exposure
setting is incorrect.
DEPTH
OF FIELD AE (DEP)
Focusing
on both the foreground and background subject ensures front to back
sharpness in your picture. A tripod is always recommended when using
this mode.
All
of these Creative Mode settings will give you the option of using
the built-in flash to either light a subject or to fill in shadows.
Finally, if you want to prove you were really there, use the Self
Timer operation (mount camera on tripod, set Self Timer, press
Shutterbutton, panic to get into shot within the 10 second countdown,
look unflustered and…….SMILE! )
Now,
if you have survived the first and second stages and want more, the
last four modes will allow you even greater flexibility....................Advanced
Modes
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ADVANCED
MODES
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AE
LOCK (Partial Metering)
You
can lock the Exposure, recompose and refocus the picture, without
altering the Auto Exposure (AE) setting.
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EXPOSURE
COMPENSATION
You
can override the exposure set by the camera at the press of a button.
This can be applied to darken or lighten a picture as you choose.
MULTIPLE
EXPOSURES
Several
images on a single frame can be achieved by not advancing the film.
BULB
EXPOSURE
Primarily
for capturing night scenes, this mode exposes the film for as long
as the Shutterbutton is held down, usually in excess of 30 secs. To
avoid camera shake, a tripod and remote release are essential.
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AUTO
EXPOSURE BRACKETING (AEB)
In
‘contrasty’ situations you may be unsure of what the
correct exposure ought to be . The AEB function will set a correct,
under and over Exposure in chosen stop increments.
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OK,
so you’ve survived the course - but before you start to congratulate
yourself on mastering the art of the SLR camera and photography you
will have to put that knowledge to the test and go out and take some
pictures!!!
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TAKING
PICTURES
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Seeing
the light. The
most crucial element of a good photograph is light, be it natural
or artificial. The early morning and late afternoon light is
usually better for it’s softness and shadow, the midday
sun is harsh and bright and produces flat images. However, you
should be aware of the effects of the changing quality of daylight
- a passing cloud can alter conditions dramatically. That’s
when you may need a burst of ‘fill in’ flash, either
from your ‘on camera’ flash unit or by attaching a
flashgun to the camera’s hotshoe. Flash will ‘fill
in’ unwanted shadows or brighten a dull scene.
Most
built in flash units are not powerful enough to light a night
time scene and , due to the close proximity to the lens, tend
to cause ‘red-eye’ (you know- those shots where your
children actually look like little devils). To overcome
these problems, a dedicated flashgun is recommended - used either
on camera or off (via an attached ‘off shoe extension cord’)
or with or without a diffuser. For indoor use, some flashguns
have a ‘bounce’ facility which enables you to tilt
the flash head upwards and ‘bounce’ the light off
a ceiling. So now you’re inside ‘bouncing light off
ceilings’ try some close up or macro work using your ‘off
camera’ flash or ringflash.
You
could, of course, set yourself up with a Studio Lighting Kit
and persuade the family (or your pet) to pose!
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Composure
and how not to lose yours! One of the first things you will very
quickly learn is that things rarely work out the way that you plan
them. Here are some examples:-
-
You
spend hours in a hide, unable to move, in pursuit of THE photograph
of that very rare lesser-spotted oozlem bird, when you get terrible
cramp just as you are about to press the Shutterbutton
- You
walk miles (without encountering another human being ) to a remote
beauty spot and, when the light is finally right to take that definitive
shot, a hoard of happy hikers appear from nowhere
- You
take that once-in-a-lifetime boat trip only to discover you’ve
left your film at home.
- The
‘candid shot’ that could make you a millionaire is ruined
when your viewfinder is blacked out by a passing truck
The
list is endless but you WILL get the pictures you’re after (although
not always) if you follow a few simple rules:-
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- View
the scene from all angles before committing yourself to taking
the picture
- Ensure
the horizon remains where is should be - that is Horizontal!
- There
is something called the Rule of Thirds where you mentally
divide your picture (both horizontally and vertically) into
thirds and place your subject at any of the intersections
- good in theory but this is a rule that can be broken in
practice with equally good results
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Remember
- photography should be fun and if you feel you are being overwhelmed
with information, put your manual down, choose a ‘Mode’
for the day and just go and take pictures …………..and
ENJOY yourself!
The
reward for all your efforts is photographs to be proud of.
There,
so you’ve absorbed all there is to know about your camera, you’ve
read the manual from back to front - and vice-versa - until you know
every word and drawing off by heart. You’ve taken note of all
the do’s and don’ts and put it all into practice. So why
then, is there still a need for the…………………………….FAQS?
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